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Viper Gecko (Hemidactylus Imbricatus) - Care Sheet

Background

Carrot-tail viper geckos (Hemidactylus imbricatus or Teratolepis fasciata) are a crepuscular, insectivorous type of terrestrial lizard native to western Pakistan and the drier portions of India. They generally prefer steppe area with plenty of rock cover. Viper geckos grow up to 3-4″ / 8-10cm long, and are most recognizable by their fat, beet-shaped tails covered with large triangular scales. The rest of the body features a ladder-like pattern with brown, grey, beige, and/or white coloring. The head is relatively large with large eyes and vertical pupils. The legs are long and slender with sticky toe pads. Although tiny and not particularly handleable, viper geckos are curious, active, and relatively hardy, making them interesting and rewarding little pets for any reptile keeper. When proper viper gecko care is provided, they are likely to live 10-15 years.



Setup & Substrate

Viper geckos need an enclosure that is large enough to give them adequate opportunity to thermoregulate, explore, hunt, and generally exercise natural behaviors. Although viper geckos top out at 4″ / 10cm long, they are usually kept in groups, so the minimum recommended enclosure size for housing up to 3 viper geckos is 24”L x 18”W x 18”H / 60 x 45 x 45cm or similar. However, larger is always better! Can multiple viper geckos be housed in the same enclosure? Absolutely! Viper geckos generally get along well in groups, and in fact I don’t recommend housing them singly. Even males appear to be able to live peaceably together when females aren’t around. If there are females in the enclosure, then there should be only one male in the group in order to avoid conflict. As always, don’t house males and females together unless you intend to breed your geckos. The breeding of any reptile is a project that shouldn’t be taken casually.

Substrate is an important part of a viper gecko terrarium because this species likes to have the opportunity to dig. A good substrate also helps maintain optimal humidity levels and creates a natural humid hide. Here are some substrate options which resemble the natural conditions of viper gecko habitat: DIY mix (60% organic topsoil, 40% fine sand), or 100% Zoo Med ReptiSand (Desert White), Exo Terra Desert Sand. The sand depth should be 3/4" to 1 1/2" deep throughout the enclosure. Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and replaced. Substrate should be completely replaced once every 3-4 months, depending on your needs.



Heat & Humidity

Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated. Viper geckos, however, are cold-blooded, and more specifically they are poikilothermic, which means they need to move between areas of different temperatures in order to regulate their body temperature. Here’s the range of temperatures that should be available in a viper gecko enclosure:

Hot zone temperature: 88-92°F, Cool zone temperature: 75-80°F, Nighttime temperature: 70-75°F, you will need one Arcadia Deep Heat Projector Bulb (80w) REPTITRIP 5.5" Day/Night Thermostatic Reptile Light Fixture, and a Zoo Med Reptitherm Undertank Heater 10-20gal (6 x 8), the heat lamp and the UTH need to be placed on the Hot Zone side of the enclousre, the UTH will remain on 24/7.

You will need (2) Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer Thermometer Large LCD 2-Pack and place one on the surface in the Hot Zone and one on the surface in the Cool Zone and you will also need a Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun to measure the surface temperature under the hide that is located on the Hot Zone side of the enclosure which should be between 88-92 degrees.

Viper geckos should have fairly dry ambient humidity levels between 30% to 50%, however they also need access to areas of higher humidity (moist hides) to use as needed, ambient humidity should be tracked via your Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer/Thermometer, pretty much the humidity should be the same levels as you keep your home.









De'cor

Decorations play a vital role in your gecko’s enclosure as environmental enrichment. Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing, so don’t be afraid to go a little crazy! And, of course, they do make the enclosure nicer to look at.

Here are some ideas to get you started: slate stacks (secured with silicone or grout) or built securely so that they will not fall on the animal, dragonstone, sandstone, cholla wood, manzanita twigs, cork tubes, cork flats, magnetic ledges, artificial plants, 3D hides (you will need to provide at least 3 hides but you can provide more hiding places) One hide on the Hot Zone side overtop where the UTH is located at and then a Humid Hide that is filled with Zoo Med Reptisoil which you will make damp at least once a week and that hide should be located near the middle of the enclosure and then a hide in the Cool Zone so that the Viper Gecko can retreat to when it needs to cool down, and this offers plenty of shelter, and creates areas of both light and shade.











Food & Supplements

Viper geckos are insectivores, which means that they need a varied diet of insects to get the right nutrition, Juvenile viper geckos (<1 year old) should be fed daily to every other day, while full-grown adults should be fed 2-3x/week.

Offer as many insects as the gecko is capable of eating over the course of 2-3 days with each feeder being smaller than the animal’s head, always offer the insects in an escape proof bowl so that they don't wonder around the enclosure and stress out your gecko, we recommend the Lee's Pet Products 2-Pack Mealworm Dishes for Reptiles.

Feeder insects for viper geckos: crickets, isopods, dubia roach nymphs, discoid roach nymphs, buffalo beetles and larvae, black solider fly larvae, small mealworms, small superworms, the key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your pet is VARIETY, provide as varied of a diet as you possibly can, and you will be rewarded with a healthier pet that always looks forward to mealtime.

Supplements All insect feeders should be lightly “dusted” with a multivitamin/calcium powder at every feeding which also helps to balance the calcium-phosphorus ratio, in All-in-one powders provide a balanced dose of both at once, the one we recommend is Repashy CalciumPlus is a solid all-in-one supplement for viper geckos and also in a small dish also include Repashy SuperCal MeD which they can lick up 24/7 if there body needs it.











Lighting

Viper geckos are crepuscular, which means that they are primarily active around sunset and then again at dawn and even through the night, However, they will become a little more active during the day once they've settled into a new home.

To help regulate their day/night cycle which is called circadian rhythm the light should be left on for 12 hours during the day and turned off for 12 hours during the night during the summertime, and 10 hours during the day and turned off for 14 hours during the night during wintertime. I would recommend the Arcadia LumenIZE Jungle Dawn LED 12" 18 watt light that you can purchase from Reptile Basics, you can program via a phone app to simulate a sunrise and sunset that is very beneficial to your animals.

For the (SummerTime) I would have it come on at 7:00am and go off at 7:00pm, for the (WinterTime) I would have it come on at 7:00am and go off at 5:00pm. The UTH stays on 24/7 and never goes off, only the lights will go on and off during this timeframe.